I think I’ve died and went to monochrome heaven; with 70’s pleats. I feel almost ashamed for using this expression after Rachel Zoe pretty much trivialized death by fashion design, but it might as well be true.
Half year ago, Richard Nicoll unapologetically introduced menswear chic into the current Fall 2010 season, when everyone around him seem to go mad for Dior’s New Look. He carried on this silhouette into Resort 2011 and now, for Spring 2011, he kept the idea, but took it up a few notches.
For Spring 2011, Richard Nicoll based the collection on David Bowie’s Thin White Duke persona from the 70’s. He took Bowie’s impeccable cabaret-style menswear look, but completely transformed it and softened it up with flowing fabrics and pleats, evoking silhouettes of Mariano Fortuny’s finely pleated gowns. The use of PVC and sheer fabrics; visible, contrast color bras; never once do these raise any thought of vulgarity or crudeness. And that is the secret of a superb womenswear collection, I suppose; alluring and sensual, but empowering and freeing, all at the same time.
By the time the last, baby pink, pleated gown came out, the only reminisce of the Thin White Duke was the black bra peeking out.