Ruffian Fall 2011 collection sure was full of contradictions. The designers Brian Wolk and Claude Morais played with all the different parts of a tuxedo – bow-ties, white shirts with contrast color buttons, cummerbund details, vest like blouses and jackets. Tailcoat, cropped or elongated; with contrasting lapels or without; in satin, vinyl or velvet; jackets were indeed aplenty.
Yves Saint Laurant’s Le Smoking might come to mind, yet Wolk and Morais’ play on the tuxedo couldn’t be more different. The former was minimal and alluring – best suited for a Femme Fatale, the latter is playful – begging to be worn by a pretty young thing on a night out on the town.
Wolk and Morais didn’t forget the Ruffian girl’s feminine side. Alongside the jackets and suits walked lace and velvet dresses. Some were embroidered, some had fringe for a skirt, and others were simple and chic body hugging maxi’s. I was most wonderfully surprised by the victorian lace collars on some of the velvet dresses. Juxtaposing such a strong symbol of subdued femininity with modern and fresh menswear as womenswear looks was very clever.
[Runway images via Style]
